#02 - How to Maximize Your Annual Pass to Shinjuku Gyoen
A Nature Walk in Tokyo: Through the Eyes of a Longtime City Wanderer
For over 30 years, I’ve enjoyed walking through Tokyo’s greener neighborhoods, especially Shibuya-ku, Shinjuku-ku, and Minato-ku. One of my favorite things? Looking up into the trees and seeing the marvels above.
This specific nest belongs to a bird of prey. You might be surprised to find that places like Yoyogi Park and Shinjuku Gyoen are home to raptors such as the Northern Goshawk (ootaka) and the Eastern Buzzard (nosuri). High above the city noise, they soar through the sky, often engaging in aerial skirmishes with the dominant pigeons and crows. Despite the odds, they nest here, raise their young, and continue to do so year after year.
Raptors communicate with their families and other birds through piercing calls that serve as warnings or alerts. These calls are hauntingly beautiful, and once you become attuned, you’ll begin to recognize individual voices. Although they may seem fierce, raptors are heavily outnumbered by crows and pigeons in Tokyo’s forests. Life isn’t easy for them here, but despite these challenges, their numbers are graduals or alerts. These calls are hauntingly beautiful, and once you become attuned, you’ll begin to recognize individual voices. Although they may seem fierce, raptors are heavily outnumbered by crows and pigeons in Tokyo’s forests. Life isn’t easy for them here, but despite these challenges, their numbers are gradually increasing.
While Yoyogi Park and Meiji Shrine are both free to enter, I recommend Shinjuku Gyoen, which charges a modest admission fee of 500 yen and is well worth it. Many of Tokyo’s major parks were once the estates of feudal lords during the Edo period. Shinjuku Gyoen is no exception. The land originally belonged to the Naitō Family, who were entrusted with protecting Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Today, their expansive estate lives on as a national garden—interestingly, it remains under the jurisdiction of the national government, rather than the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, which gives it a distinct status among the city's parks.
Within the garden, you'll find elegant remnants of the past: a Western-style villa once used by Emperor Meiji as a retreat, traditional Japanese gardens with teahouses, and historical architecture nestled among the trees. At one of the teahouses, you can sit on traditional tatami mats and enjoy a bowl of matcha tea. There’s also a greenhouse that showcases tropical plants from around the world. Whether you're wandering alone or with a friend, the experience is quietly enriching and always full of discovery.
Shinjuku Gyoen is breathtaking all year, but if I had to choose one season, it would definitely be cherry blossom season. The variety of sakura trees here is incredible, offering a sequence of blooms from early-blooming species to the late-blooming yaezakura that appear after the famous Somei Yoshino have fallen. The most magical moment is when the petals start to fall. Standing beneath the trees, you’ll see delicate pink petals drifting into your open hand, capturing a fleeting beauty that words can hardly express. If possible, I encourage you to visit every week during this season to observe each subtle change. As it has become increasingly popular, especially among international visitors, Shinjuku Gyoen now requires online reservations during peak cherry blossom season to help manage crowds. Be sure to plan accordingly to make the most of this spectacular spring experience.
With an annual pass, you can visit as often as you like, and at just 2,000 yen a year, you’ll get your money’s worth during cherry blossom season. But spring isn’t the only highlight. Autumn at Shinjuku Gyoen is just as stunning. The garden is home to countless deciduous trees, including many varieties of cherry, which turn vibrant shades of red, gold, and amber by November. It’s a natural kaleidoscope that stops you in your tracks.
The entire loop around the garden is about 3.5 kilometers, making it perfect for a relaxed yet enjoyable walk. A top route: enter through Shinjuku Gate and exit via Sendagaya Gate. From there, it’s just a seven-minute walk to the lush forest of Meiji Jingu Shrine, another beautiful trail I highly recommend. So why not explore the seasons, step by step, with an annual pass to Shinjuku Gyoen? It’s one of Tokyo’s hidden gems, waiting to be rediscovered all year long.
Article by: Junko Ichikawa
