#03 - Your First Traditional Café Experience in Japan
A Hidden Gem in Tokyo: Enjoy Premium Warabi Mochi and Matcha in a Garden Teahouse “Okyokan” at Ueno’s National Museum
When overseas visitors visit Tokyo for the first time, popular spots often include Toyosu Market, Meiji Shrine, the Imperial Palace, or Tokyo Tower. However, my top recommendation is the Tokyo National Museum in Ueno.
The entrance fee is just ¥1,000, and you can easily spend half a day there, making it a great deal. The exhibits include a wide range of items, from Buddhist statues and swords to armor, fine arts, and kimonos, providing a comprehensive look at Japanese culture and history. English audio guides are available for rent, and even if you don’t listen to the explanations, simply walking through the elegant halls of the museum, which are architectural masterpieces themselves, is a real delight.
Personally, I’m fond of the Buddhist art section, especially the variety of statues. You’re sure to find one that resonates with your aesthetic. I’m a fan of the serene Kannon Bosatsu (Goddess of Mercy) from the Hakuho period.
But beyond the exhibits, there’s something even more special: the vast garden that surrounds the museum buildings. Designed to complement the Western-style architecture, this traditional Japanese garden comes alive with seasonal flowers and stunning autumn foliage.
And tucked quietly behind the main hall is Okyokan, a relocated historic teahouse that now operates as a traditional café. I only discovered it this year, and it’s a true hidden gem.
Inside, you’ll find a large tatami room with low chabudai tables and cushions. Here, they serve light meals made with organic ingredients, along with perfectly prepared matcha and the best warabi mochi (bracken starch jelly) I’ve ever had. I’ve tried warabi mochi and kuzumochi in many places, but this one stands out. The kinako (roasted soybean flour) is homemade from boiled soybeans, and even the matcha is whisked in the authentic style. In summer, you can enjoy iced matcha too.
So if you’re unsure where to spend a relaxing weekend afternoon, I highly recommend heading to the Okyokan teahouse inside TOHAKU (short for the Tokyo National Museum). You’ll find it listed online as "TOHAKU Chakan." If you get lost in the garden, ask for “Okyokan”. The staff will point you in the right direction. There are a few other cafés on the grounds, but this one is truly special. It’s such a well-kept secret that many locals don’t even know about it, but those who do go are never disappointed. Be sure to make a reservation during lunchtime—it’s quite popular, especially among solo diners from overseas.
On your way back, avoid the crowds at Ueno Station and take a peaceful stroll instead. Visit nearby historical spots, such as Toshogu Shrine, Kaneiji Temple, and the lush forest campus of the Tokyo University of the Arts. Then wander through the charming neighborhoods of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi, where old Tokyo vibes remain alive and well.
Article by: Junko Ichikawa
